Borja Cortina – Bar manager at Varsovia cocktail bar, Gijón

Borja Cortina – Bar manager at Varsovia cocktail bar, Gijón, and at El Siete restaurant, Gijón

Borja Cortina, champion of the World Class Competition 2015, started in the profession, as the greats often do, from the bottom. His father suggested he open a bar and revive his grandparents’ business, but first he had to learn the trade. And he learned it on Marqués de Casa Valdés street, at Café Caracol, owned by a family friend. That was the beginning. Afterwards, he continued at El Palacio, a wine bar serving tapas and drinks that his family opened, where he would hone his craft in every role possible. And he took the definitive step when he opened a space dedicated exclusively to cocktails, a must-visit on Gijón nights: Varsovia.

How did you become a bartender? Where did you start?

I became a bartender because my father showed me a venue in Gijón’s old town that at the time was still a bit “shady”, and he suggested we open a bar there and return to my grandparents’ business. So I started working at a family friend’s bar, Café Caracol, to learn the trade.

Did you have a mentor, or were you self-taught?

Obviously, at Café Caracol I learned how to serve and manage the bar, but nothing about the cocktail world—that came later. I started taking courses and training sessions, which were very scarce at the time, and travelling to the few cocktail bars there were in Spain, until during a training session in Gijón I met Patxi Troitiño, who blew my mind and showed me the world of creativity. He is, in part, responsible for who I am today.

What was it that truly hooked you on this profession? Does any detail or moment come to mind?

What hooked me was seeing people happy and being part of that. That is the most beautiful part of our profession.

Do you remember your first cocktail?

A Gin Fizz. I remember the argument at the bar about whether it was made with egg or not…

Which cocktail have you made that brought you the most joy?

My father hardly drinks alcohol; he likes cider, wine… Recently I served him a hot cider cocktail, and seeing the sparkle in his eyes when he took the first sip…

Which cocktail have you made that made you feel embarrassed?

I was very embarrassed at a Schweppes competition I went to without preparing much. It was very traumatic; I swore it would never happen to me again. That moment was a turning point.

A famous customer you have served? Any anecdote with him or her?

Nothing noteworthy. As a great bartender once told me: “The day that customer came and that happened, I was off duty.”

What do you enjoy most about your profession?

The satisfaction of a job well done—when you finish, the last customer leaves, and everything has gone perfectly…

What do you like least about your job?

Stealing hours from my family.

How do you see the market right now? Where is it headed?

I see a market with very little loyalty. There are few customers left who used to tell you they had been drinking a certain brand all their life. Now people are more open to experimenting, but of course they are less loyal, and that affects how you buy and manage stock. It is very good for bartenders, but I do not know if it is as good for brands.

As a professional who has been working in this for years, what trends do you foresee?

More and more, I realise that forecasting trends is not my thing, but I believe we need—and on this I am sure—more and better management, and our service must be impeccable. What we serve afterwards is truly secondary, as long as we do it professionally.

For people who visit your venue, which two cocktails should they not miss?

They should not miss the views… Nor the opportunity to enjoy the service; what they drink is secondary. We put as much love into a coffee as into a daiquiri, and you love all your children equally—naming one would be unfair to another.

Would you share any of your recipes with us? Please. It is not necessary if you do not want to include quantities.

The best one I can think of to share:

50% management, 50% love and professionalism.

We share cocktail recipes constantly; there should be no secrets in this.

Who has been your biggest reference in this world?

There are many. I admire many people for many different reasons: Patxi Troitiño’s way of sharing and passing on knowledge; Carlos Moreno’s madness; Antonio Naranjo’s technique; Juan Valls’ creativity; David Rios’ elegance; Alberto Pizarro’s or Manu Iturregui’s public speaking; Alfonso Maya’s or Gegam’s spirituality; Adriana’s boldness; Alfredo Pernia’s dry wit; Marc Alvarez’s professionalism; Diego Cabrera’s ability to know everyone; Mario Villalón’s knowledge and public speaking; Javier de las Muelas’ business vision; Juanillo’s irreverence and creativity; Giaccomo, Rafa Martin, Roger, Luca, Nagore, Sehob… I could go on like this all day… You always learn something from fellow professionals.

Any advice for someone who wants to be a barman or is just starting out?

Study and dedicate yourself to something else, hahaha… No, no, seriously! Get trained and, above all, ask yourself whether you have a vocation for service.

In the time you have been working, you must have seen many things and met many people. What is a moment that, to this day, you will not be able to forget?

I will not forget the feeling I had when I went up to collect the World Class award at the Goya Theatre and the ovation my colleagues gave me. Everyone deserves to have that recognition, at least once in their life.

Any anecdote you cannot stop yourself from telling?

The training session that opened my eyes to the creative world—it was the first training session Patxi Troitiño ever delivered.

Any cocktail book you would recommend?

Many—so many. I am a compulsive buyer of cocktail books. There is one, not very well known, that has been with me as a reference book, and it is a fantastic book: “Craft Cocktail at Home” by Kevin Liu.

What music do you like to listen to when you prepare your creations?

I like all kinds of music; I do not have much of an issue with almost any style.

Which cocktail do you like to drink?

I like almost all of them, but with good company.

Which cocktail do you like to make?

I do not have a favourite, but for some strange reason I am drawn to the mixing glass.

¿Which bottle is a must-have at home?

Milk. Every day before going to bed, a glass of cold milk. I hardly drink alcohol at home.

And at your bar, is there a special bottle—something unique?

There is a bottle I am especially fond of. My father gave it to me, and it has been in the family for more than 50 years. It is nothing special—just a Marie Brizard bottle that contains 4 different liqueurs. The bottle is divided into 4 sections, so if you turn it you find the different liqueurs and their labels.

Any favourite bar tool—maybe a fetish?

As I told you before, I am especially drawn to the mixing glass.

Any barman from the new generation you respect or admire?

Many. My namesake Borja Goikioetxea; Saul and Ivan from Malasaña; Raquel Espolio from Larrumba; Yeray Monforte Mati and his team… There are many, and they are very good—infinitely better prepared than we were. There is an incredible generation that, if the spotlight does not dazzle them, will be very important for our sector.

A bar in the world, or two…

Any bar with a great bartender behind it—and, sorry, my second love after my family: El Varsovia.

What is your opinion of the current resurgence of cocktail culture?

I love that this is happening and that I have witnessed it, but I am a little afraid that the spirit of service will be lost and that we will feel like stars. The press and the media show a lot of interest in our work, and that is good, but we must not believe it too much.

With our empty glasses on the Varsovia bar, we say goodbye until next time. It has been a privilege to talk with Borja—an exceptional professional, humble and family-oriented, who has not been dazzled by the spotlight.